Houses & cottages

Borehole, well or spring: private water for a house in the Carpathians — permits and quality

A borehole for your own house in Ukraine usually needs no permit — which says nothing about whether the water is safe. The two legal thresholds, the sanitary distances, the test limits for wells and springs, and the papers to ask the seller for.

12 min read
Light banner for the article on boreholes, wells and springs with a line drawing of a house

Short answer

On your own plot you can run a borehole or well without a subsoil permit as long as each intake draws no more than 300 m³ a day, and without a special water-use permit up to 5 m³ a day. So the permit is rarely the issue. Location and quality are: a private well must sit at least 20 m from a cesspit or sewage system, and its water must show zero E. coli and no more than 50 mg/l of nitrates.

A borehole in the Carpathians, an old dug well or a capped spring on the slope is, in most villages around Kosiv, the only water a house has — there is no mains supply. Buyers tend to ask one thing: do I need a permit for the borehole? For a family home the answer is almost always no, which is exactly why it is the wrong question. People lose money and health not over missing permits but over a well ten metres from a cesspit, a spring on someone else's land, and a water test nobody ever ran. Below is what Ukrainian law actually says, which distances and numbers to check, and what to ask the seller for.

Do you need a permit for a borehole or well on your own plot?

For a house a family lives in, no. A permit only comes into play once the volume goes well beyond household use. There are two thresholds, though, in two different codes, and it is worth knowing both.

The first is Article 23 of the Subsoil Code. Owners and users of land may, "within the plots they own or use", extract groundwater (other than mineral water) without a special subsoil permit for any purpose except producing bottled drinking water, provided each intake draws no more than 300 m³ a day. The current wording of the article sets no depth limit.

The second is the Water Code. Article 47 expressly treats drawing water "from wells" as general water use: free and permit-free. Article 48 says that taking or using up to 5 m³ a day is not special water use, except for water that goes into drinks or bottled water. Above that you need a special water-use permit (Art. 49): it is issued free of charge within 30 calendar days, while the water use itself is paid for.

The two thresholds a private water owner should know
CodeWhat it governsPermit-free thresholdAbove the threshold
Subsoil Code, Art. 23Extracting groundwater on your own plotUp to 300 m³ a day per intake, except for bottled-water productionA special subsoil use permit
Water Code, Art. 47Drawing water from wellsFree and permit-free — it is general water use—
Water Code, Arts. 48–49Taking and using waterUp to 5 m³ a day is not special water useA special water-use permit, free, 30 calendar days; the water itself is paid for

For scale: 5 m³ is 5,000 litres a day. Whether you are anywhere near it is something only a meter on the pump outlet can tell you, not guesswork. For a property with several guest cabins, a hot tub and a pool it is worth measuring: a month of readings tells you more than any estimate.

Borehole, dug well or capped spring: what differs for a buyer

These are three different structures with different weak points. Ukraine's drinking-water sanitary rules, DSanPiN 2.2.4-171-10, define them precisely: a shaft well (the ordinary dug well) is a vertical excavation of large cross-section; a tube well, which is what a borehole is, has a small round cross-section; and a spring capture is a structure that collects water where it rises to the surface on its own.

Three kinds of private water and what to inspect in each
StructureHow it is builtWeak pointWhat to check on a viewing
Dug wellWide shaft of concrete rings, stone or a log crib, with a head above groundOpen to surface water if the head is low or there is no clay sealHead height (the rule is at least 0.8 m), a lid, tight walls, an apron sloping away from the well
Shallow tube well (driven well)A pipe with a screen, for groundwater down to 7–9 mDraws on the same upper layer as a dug wellA sealed head, the apron, the distance to the septic tank
Deep boreholeCased with pipe, aquifer deeper than 9 mQuality depends on the casing and how the top is sealedA well record with depth and casing details, the pump, a water test
Spring captureA chamber with a settling section and a clean-water section, plus an overflow pipeFreezing, silting, flooding by surface water, land that is not yoursThe access neck (at least 0.8 m above ground), a screen and flap valve on the overflow, ventilation, the plot boundary

The rules themselves call a shallow tube well "better protected than a shaft well". An old dug well is not a defect in itself, but it deserves the closest look at exactly the details that keep rain and meltwater out.

How far must a well or borehole be from a septic tank and a road?

For a private well, at least 20 m from a cesspit, latrine, sewage structures and pipes; for a public one, 50 m. That is clause 3.32 of DSanPiN 2.2.4-171-10, and under the rules' own definitions a borehole is a (tube) well too.

  • 20 m (private well) or 50 m (public) from latrines, cesspits, sewage structures and pipes, fertiliser and pesticide stores, and places where livestock is kept.
  • 30 m from roads with heavy traffic.
  • Upstream in the groundwater flow from any source of contamination. On a slope that simply means the septic tank must not sit higher up the slope than the well.
  • Not on ground that floods, erodes or slides, and not in hollows or boggy spots (clause 3.33).
  • Within 50 m no washing vehicles, watering livestock, ponds for waterfowl or mixing pesticides (clause 3.33).

This is where real plots most often fail. An old house has its well by the door and the cesspit "behind the house", twelve metres away. Or a new owner puts the septic tank where the emptying truck can reach it — uphill. Measure the distance on site with a tape, not from what you are told, and read the slope. We cover planning water and drainage before you build in our piece on utilities for a plot in the Carpathians.

Which water tests to run and what numbers to compare against?

DSanPiN 2.2.4-171-10 has a separate column of limits for wells and spring captures. It is gentler than the one for tap water, but there is no compromise on E. coli. The minimum for a buyer is microbiology plus a few chemical indicators that most often give away contamination from sewage or fertiliser.

Limits for drinking water from wells and spring captures (DSanPiN 2.2.4-171-10, appendices 1 and 2)
IndicatorLimitWhat an exceedance tells you
E. coliNone in 100 cm³Faecal contamination: do not drink, find where it gets in
Total coliformsNo more than 1 CFU per 100 cm³Surface water getting in, or a poor seal
Nitrates (as NO₃)No more than 50 mg/lSewage, manure or fertiliser nearby — check the distances
AmmoniumNo more than 2.6 mg/lFresh organic contamination
Total ironNo more than 1.0 mg/lTaste and rust stains — a filter solves it, but budget for one
TurbidityNo more than 3.5 nephelometric unitsSand, clay, a badly built screen or capture
pH6.5–8.5Water aggressive to pipes and the boiler, or the opposite

When you take the sample matters as much as what you measure. The rules require the owner to run a full test once a year "in the least favourable period of the year" (clause 5.2). The logic is simple: a poorly sealed well is clean on a dry sunny day and gets contaminated with heavy rain or snowmelt — rain and meltwater are precisely what the rules require it to be sealed against. So a test the seller had done in July proves little to a buyer. If you can, take your own sample after rain, at a laboratory that will tell you which DSanPiN indicators it measured.

A spring on the slope: whose water is it, and can a pipe cross someone else's land?

If the spring and its capture are on your plot, the water is yours within the same thresholds. If the spring is higher up, on a neighbour's, community or forest land, with a pipe running down to the house, you have no right to that water until there is a servitude. A neighbour's verbal consent is not a right: it is recorded nowhere, and you have nothing to show the next owner of that land.

Ukraine's Land Code (Art. 99) provides for exactly these easements: the right to lay a water pipe to your plot from someone else's natural water body or across someone else's land (item "g"), and the right to draw water from a natural water body on a neighbouring plot and to walk to it (item "d"). How an easement is set up and registered is covered in our article on securing access to a plot — the mechanics for water are the same.

Look separately at the stream the spring feeds. A capture next to running water often sits inside the riparian buffer strip, with its own restrictions — see our piece on buying land near a stream.

What water paperwork to ask the seller for

Private water rarely comes with much paperwork, and that alone is not a reason to walk away from a house. But every document that exists closes one question, and every one that is missing moves the checking onto you and your budget.

  1. A sanitary passport for the well or spring captureThe rules say a new well or capture goes into use after an inspection by the sanitary service and the completion of a sanitary passport (clause 3.34), whose renewal is recorded every year. A passport means a history. No passport means all the checking falls to you.
  2. The borehole record and casing detailsDepth, aquifer, casing pipes, yield at handover. Artesian boreholes have an approved passport form, and it is from that passport that data goes into the State Register of Artesian Wells.
  3. The drilling contract or completion certificateThe Water Code (Art. 106) says production water wells are built by organisations holding the relevant permits, working from design documents. Who drilled it and when is the first thing you will want to know if anything goes wrong.
  4. Test results from recent yearsWith dates, the laboratory's name and the list of indicators. One test is a snapshot; several across seasons show how the source actually behaves.
  5. Papers for the pump and water treatmentThe pump model, the pressure tank, the filters and when cartridges were last changed. This is the running side of the system, and the new owner inherits it with the house.

Everything else worth checking in a finished house — the roof, damp, the building's documents — is in our checklist for buying a house in the Carpathians.

A rental cottage: when the water stops being just for you

For a cottage you let to guests, the subsoil rules change nothing: Article 23 allows groundwater "for any purpose" up to 300 m³ a day. Two other things do change — volume and responsibility.

  • Volume. Several cabins, a hot tub and a pool can bring a property close to the Water Code's 5 m³-a-day threshold. Fit a meter and have the numbers before anyone else asks for them.
  • The register. The procedure for the State Register of Artesian Wells (Cabinet Resolution No. 706) names the applicant as the owner or user of the land — a legal entity or a sole trader (FOP). If the cottage runs as a business, ask a lawyer whether your borehole belongs on the register.
  • Quality control. Under the rules, owners of wells and captures carry out the periodic testing: a full test once a year, an annual inspection, cleaning and disinfection (clauses 5.1–5.4). Once guests drink the water, this is no longer a private matter.
  • Supplying others. If you plan to supply other households through a pipe network, that is a different regime, and it should be worked through with a lawyer before the first pipe goes in.

For an investor this is a line in the numbers, not a formality: water is one of the few things through which a guest can do worse than leave a bad review — they can fall ill. How we look at a rental cottage as a whole is on our page on property investment in the Carpathians.

What to do with an old well or an abandoned borehole on the plot

Do not leave it open. The Water Code (Art. 105) requires boreholes unfit for use and abandoned wells to be plugged or decommissioned: an open shaft is a direct route for contamination into groundwater that you or a neighbour may be drinking.

For a dug well the rules also say how: once the top structure is removed, the shaft is filled with clean soil, preferably clay, compacted firmly, and topped with a mound of 0.2–0.3 m to allow for settling (DSanPiN clause 5.9). Tipping building rubble down it is exactly what not to do.

A short checklist for viewing a plot with private water

  1. The well, borehole or capture lies inside the plot boundary on the cadastral map.
  2. At least 20 m to the cesspit, septic tank, latrine and livestock area, and the septic tank is not higher up the slope.
  3. At least 30 m to a busy road; the structure is not in a hollow, on a slide or on ground that floods.
  4. The head stands at least 0.8 m above ground, with a lid and an apron sloping away.
  5. A recent test: no E. coli, nitrates up to 50 mg/l, ideally sampled after rain.
  6. Borehole record, sanitary passport, drilling certificate, earlier tests — what exists and what does not.
  7. If the spring is beyond the boundary: a registered easement, not a verbal promise.
  8. For a rental: a meter and the real daily consumption.

When we show houses and cottages in the Carpathians or land for sale, we raise the water question before a buyer falls for the view. You can buy a plot with no water knowingly, but then exploratory drilling belongs in the budget, not in the surprises.

Frequently asked questions

Sources

This article is for general information and is not legal or sanitary advice. The rules are quoted in the versions in force on the publication date; check them against the current text before a purchase and, where needed, with a lawyer, a hydrogeologist or a laboratory.

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